Civil War Walking Tour of Downtown York

One-hundred forty-five years ago, York was a town in crisis. Over 6,000 battle hardened Confederates occupied York on June 28, 29, and 30, 1863.
Today, many of the buildings from that era remain. Here’s a quick guide to some of those buildings, adapted from my book, “Civil War Walking Tour of York, Pennsylvania,” available from the Museum Shop of the York County Heritage Trust:
Historical Society Museum
250 East Market Street
A great place to begin your tour. Check out “The Civil War Comes to York County” exhibit, see original Lewis Miller prints, and find the latest in Civil War book offerings at the Museum Shop.
Michael P. Small House
249 East Market Street
Today the Schintz Studio, this building was once home to General Small, who issued provisions to Lee’s defeated army at Appomattox.
Charles Billmeyer House
225 East Market Street
Billmeyer was a partner in the Billmeyer and Small Co., manufacturers of railroad cars. Confederate General Jubal Early threatened to burn their car shops.
David E. Small House
153 East Market Street
Also known as Martin Library’s Brownstone. Small was the other half of the Billmeyer and Small partnership. He also served on the Committee of Safety that negotiated the occupation of York with Confederate General Jubal Early.
Bonham House
152 East Market Street
Headquarters for the York County Heritage Trust’s Victorian and Civil War Living History Program. Bonham was an artist and attorney. During the Civil War, he served as revenue assessor, appointed by Abraham Lincoln.
Judge Fisher House
124 East Market Street
Judge Robert Fisher was the judge for York and Adams Counties, and during the Confederate occupation Fisher stood up to General Early to prevent him from burning the courthouse records, The judge’s wife, Mary, was a nurse at the U.S. Army Hospital on Penn Common and spent a week on the Gettysburg battlefield helping the wounded.
Philip A. Small House
59 East Market Street
Philip A. Small was a prominent businessman and a member of the Committee of Safety. His mills were occupied by Confederate brigades from Virginia and Louisiana. Small’s daughter, Cassandra, wrote letter chronicling this occupation from this building, which is today known as the Lafayette Club.
York County Court House
28 East Market Street
The courthouse that stood during the occupation was replaced in 1898; however, the columns, pediment, and cupola from the earlier courthouse remain. General Early made the courthouse his headquarters during the occupation, and it was in the courtroom that Early made a list of demands upon the citizens of York.
Centre Square
Intersection of George and Market Streets
Centre (Continental) Square was vastly different 145 years ago, though the Golden Swan Tavern and newly-exposed Hartman Building (formerly Futer Bros.) remain. Georgian John B. Gordon led his 1800-man strong brigade through the streets of York, and took down a 35-ft. flag that hung in the Square. After Gordon’s brigade departed, General William “Extra Billy” Smith gave a humorous speech to the citizens in gathered in the Square.
Odd Fellows’ Hall
102 South George Street
Known today as Washington Hall, this building served as barracks, an armory, and a back-up Army Hospital throughout the course of the Civil War.
Penn Common
West College Avenue
Today known as Penn Park, the public common housed a large Army Hospital from 1862-1865, treating over 14,000 wounded. A tablet marks the layout of the hospital, and the Soldiers & Sailors monument pays tribute to all who served during the war.
Dr. Henry Smyser House
30 South Beaver Street
Dr. Henry Smyser was a surgeon at the U.S. Army Hospital. He was familiar with war medicine, having earlier served as Physician to the Czar in the Russian Crimean War.
National House
53 West Market Street
The building of today showcases its appearance in 1863 when Early’s Division occupied York.
Dr. Alexander Blair House
59 North Duke Street
Dr. Blair was the executive officer of the U.S. Army Hospital on Penn Common. Prior to the arrival of the Confederates, Blair evacuated many of the wounded to safety in Columbia, Lancaster County. Blair married Cassandra Small one year later.
William Goodridge House
123 East Philadelphia Street
Goodridge was a freed slave who became a prominent businessman and notable agent on the Underground Railroad. After John Brown’s raid on Harper’s Ferry, Goodridge helped the only free black to participate and escape, using his network to help Osborne Perry Anderson to safety.
There you have it, a short walking tour of Civil War sites in downtown York! The tour should take you about 90 minutes. Education and excercise: what better way to spend the July 4th holiday this year!